This is the pattern that I’m currently test knitting for christmas/yule gifts. It’s a pretty straightforward creature. It’s a top down cabled shawl. I love top down shawls right now because they let you knit with however much yarn you have instead of worrying if you’ll run out. The beauty of this pattern is that it’s so simplistic that you can adjust it to fit your favorite techniques (you could use a bar increase at the center instead of a YO for example or alter the number of stitches that you cast on) and you can even swap out cables if you wanted.
This version of Mabon is made with worsted weight acrylic half skeins that I have laying around without any purpose. I’m currently using a size 9 circular.
The cables in this version are alternating basic 4×4 crosses. If you are knitting with the front side facing you the cables twist right on the right side of the center increases, and left on the left of the increases.
The shawl can be knit in any weight and with any yardage. More yardage will just make a bigger shawl. If you’re using a lighter yarn and a smaller needle, adjust yardage accordingly. I’m guessing that I will have used about 700 yards total by the time that I’m done but I could be wrong since I’m using partial skeins.
Template:
CO with your favorite method for a top down shawl
or
CO 5 stitches.
First row: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 (this is your center stitch), yo, k1, yo, k1.
second row: K first and last st, purl all other stitches
Increasing: K1, yo, work to center stitch, yo, k1, yo. On wrong side row, center stitch will always be purled.
Increase every right side row.
When there are 8 stitches on each side of the center stitch:
k1, yo, work first cable (right cross- cable 4 stitches in front (put 4 stitches on a cable needle to the back of the work, k 4 then k4 from cable needle or air cable*)), yo, k1, work second cable (left cross- cable 4 stitches in back (put 4 stitches on a cable needle to the front of the work, k4 then k4 from cable needle or air cable)), yo, k1.
Work basic cable pattern from next row, starting with row one.
work all new increases as k until there are 8 stitches on either side of the cable, at which point all new stitches will be worked in stockinette and cabled accordingly on the first cross row after there are 8 full stockinette stitches in the panel. (In other words the first 8 increases are worked as garter, the next 8 are worked as stockinette, and so on on the reverse side).
or
If you prefer you can work the pattern as follows: working increase rows, work in stockinette until there is 19 stitches on the needles working first and last stitches as k. Place marker after 1st stitch, before and after the center stitch, and before the last stitch- you want to increase before the first marker, on either side of the center stitch but in between the markers, and after the last marker. When you work the next 16 rows all new increases will be worked in garter, the next 8 new increases will be incorporated as stockinette, and so on.
When you have finished the first garter panel on the next RS row, work the first cable row and then start cable pattern from row 1.
New cables will begin on the first cable row after the section is completed (there are 8 full stitches in the stockinette panel). If there are not 8 stitches in the panel, then the panel is worked in stocknette and the first full panel will begin the cabled section. The panel will be cabled on the next cross row.
To end: Work to row 4 and BO loosely, or work to row 4 and work at least 4 rows garter stitch. BO loosely, weave in ends and block (if necessary).
Basic Cable Pattern:
1: k1, work to the center stitch keeping stitches in pattern (you may want to place stitch makers to differeniate panels- you are purling the stockinette stitches and knitting the garter stitches, and incorporating the yarn overs into the current panel so k or p accordingly), P1, work to the last stitch keeping stitches in pattern, K1
2: K1, yo, k to center stitch, yo, k1, yo, k to last stitch, yo, k1
3: rep row 1, making sure to work increases into appropriate pattern.
4: rep row 2
5: rep row 1
6: rep row 2
7: rep row 1
8: k1, yo, work to first complete stockinette panel, *work first cable (right cross- cable 4 stitches in front (put 4 stitches on a cable needle to the back of the work, k 4 then k4 from cable needle or air cable*)), k8* to panel before center stitch, work in appropriate stitch pattern to center stitch, yo, k1, yo, work to first complete stockinette panel, *(left cross- cable 4 stitches in back (put 4 stitches on a cable needle to the front of the work, k4 then k4 from cable needle or air cable)), k8*, work to last st, yo, k1.
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wordpress seems to think that i don’t really need a break here!
I’m going to be rewriting this pattern when I have time to sit down and come up with clearer instructions. It’s been awhile since I actually bothered to write down a pattern! The pattern looks garbled on paper but it’s actually a lot more straightforward when it’s knit- just remember that every panel is 8 stitches long, and you are working all new increases in the current panel stitch. If you are working on a garter panel then all the new stitches will be worked in garter, then the next 8 will be worked in stockinette.
If you want you can start cabling every stockinette panel when it’s completed and then track when each cable is crossed but that’s way too much work for me, and I like how the pattern works up in this version. You could alter what cables you use but keep in mind that a wider cable will require more stitches in the cable panel and will most likely require more yarn.
* air cabling: cabling without a cable needle. essentially you let the stitches off the needle to hang on the air and manipulate them back onto the left needle so that you’re working the entire cable with the cross already completed. i find it to be much simpler and faster than working with a cable needle. there’s several good tutorials online on the technique.
copyright 2009 Fluffypads/ fluffnspin on ravelry
items made be sold from this pattern but please credit me!
